Greystoke - As you make the approach to Greystoke by dhow, the outline of the camp is visible against a backdrop of deep green forest and pale beach. Your home at Greystoke Mahale is in wildly exotic wooden bandas looking out across the beach, with interiors fashioned from seasoned dhow timber. The six-suites are open-fronted, with adjoining bathrooms, and upstairs chill-out decks, designed for the most demanding castaway. The focal point of Greystoke is the bar and dining area rising up from the sand and loosely modeled on traditional Tongwe architecture. The upstairs area, with its cushioned rare books and specialist primate library, now has four decks that look out to every point of the compass, and are the perfect vantage points to sit and appreciate this incredible place. Treks through the rainforest take you to Mahale's chimpanzees. Tracking the primates is all part of the experience of observing the nine species of primate, of which the endangered chimpanzee is the most famous. Sixty chimps live in the mountains close to camp, and have become habituated to human presence over two decades of contact. There is also the opportunity to observe leopard, bushbuck, bushpig, and a multitude of birds and butterflies. The waters sparkle with over 250 species of tropical fish. After a morning of hiking through the rainforests, there is no better way to recoup your energies than on the soft sand beach, and in the waters of the lake. And if a day's chimping is not enough, you can kayak along the lakeshore, snorkel or go fishing.