We’ve found over the years that we’ve become quite adept as geography teachers since Zambia, Zambezi and Zimbabwe do all sound similar, if you’re hearing them for the first time. So we thought it would be fun to use our blog today to explain a little about the “4 corners” in southern Africa. The “4 corners” is a popular term used to refer to the area where the great Zambezi and the Chobe rivers join Zimbabwe, Zambia, Namibia, and Botswana together. This is actually the only place in Africa where 4 countries meet.

We love this area because it is not only a beautiful introduction to Southern Africa, but by virtue of the three airports in close proximity (Livingstone Airport on the Zambian side, Kasane Airport in Botswana and Victoria Falls Airport in Zimbabwe) it functions as a physical gateway to the whole region and allows for fairly seamless travel between major national parks in all four countries.

Let’s Take A Tour …

The Zambezi River first forms the divide between Angola and the Northern border of the Caprivi strip (the thin long “panhandle” of Namibia that reaches out 250 miles east of the country), then rushes over the the Victoria Falls and courses through the spectacular Batoka Gorge about 50 miles east of the “4 corners” and continues to mark the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe, flowing through Lake Kariba, then Mozambique and ultimately out to the Indian Ocean.

Along the southern border of the same Caprivi strip, the Chobe River separates Namibia from Botswana before it’s confluence with the Zambezi. One of Botswana’s best known game parks, the Chobe Game Reserve, teeming with elephant, stretches along it’s the southern bank for roughly 90 miles. (Zoom in and out on the map below to follow us here).

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Chobe is easily accessed from Kasane Airport (the nearest park gate is about 15 minutes away), which is also frequently the point of departure for guests flying on to the famous Moremi Game Reserve, Okavango Delta, Linyanti or Selinda areas. About 15 minutes along a road due east of Kasane, one crosses the border from Botswana to Zimbabwe, to pass through the Matetsi Safari Area, for another 45-minute drive to Victoria Falls Town.

Known as the adventure capital of Africa (not least for a 350 feet bungee jump off the bridge that connects Zimbabwe with Zambia), it also offers the broadest view of the falls, about two thirds of the width of the Zambezi river, and the airport serves guests connecting to safari destinations like Hwange National Park, Kariba, or the beautiful Mana Pools area – again flanking the mighty Zambezi further east.

Another border crossing from Victoria Falls Town (Zimbabwe) into Livingstone (Zambia), affords access to the eastern cataract, as well as (seasonally) the precipitous Livingstone Island and the famous Devils Pool at the lip of the thundering abyss. Along the Zambezi River’s northern bank, several famous lodges (Islands of Ziankaba, Sussi & Chuma, Toka Leya, Tongabezi, River Club) serve as a base for exploration, or a stepping stone en route to Zambia’s Lower Zambezi National Park to the East (across the Zambezi from the Mana Pools) or South Luangwa National Park further north east (usually requiring a connection in Lusaka). Driving about 90 minutes westward from Livingstone back towards Namibia however, leads one to the Kazangulu border post where crossing from Zambia back into Botswana is possible only by boat or ferry, and yes – the exact spot in the water where the four countries meet.

We truly believe that visiting more than one African country really adds to your overall safari experience. The “four corners” makes this possible with minimal travel time. It brings to light the fact that Africa is made up of more than 50 distinct countries, each with their own unique culture, languages, history and landscapes.

It comes as a surprise to many of our clients that mornings are chilly in Africa. The early morning game drive is standard practice on every good safari. That’s when the animals are at their most active. And if you’ve been on an early morning game drive, you’re probably convinced (as we are) that the animals are active in order to stay warm. It’s not uncommon for temperatures to be in the 40’s when you start your drive.

Too often folks on safari get goosebumps because they’re freezing, not just because they’ve spotted their very first elephant. You also want to avoid ruining the video of your very first elephant sighting by shivering uncontrollably. Our advice is simple: pack a thick fleece or medium jacket and some gloves. If you’re enjoying a safari during the dry winter months (May – August in southern Africa) you won’t regret packing a hat and scarf as well. You want to be chill, not chilly, on safari.

Of course by the end of the drive, as you head back to camp to enjoy a huge breakfast, you’ll be quietly baking in the mid-morning sun. It’s impolite to rush your fellow amateur photographers as they try to capture a cheetah stalking some impala, just because it’s now 11 am and you’ve become a ball of sweat. Our advice remains simple: wear the fleece or jacket you’ve packed and then layer, layer, layer. The sun is strong in these parts and temperatures can easily rise 30 degrees within a few hours.

More Safari Dress Tips

• Wear comfortable clothes that you don’t mind getting dusty
• Avoid bright colors (Tsetse flies love bright colors and the animals you want to see don’t)
• Avoid camouflage clothing resembling army uniforms
• Bring a good sunhat with a chin strap to avoid losing it (you’ll likely be in open vehicles)
• Bring clothes for just three days (laundering is always available and things dry fast in the sun)
• Bring a swimsuit, many lodges and camps have swimming pools
• Pack light in soft, small-medium bags (small aircraft cannot accommodate suitcases)
• Don’t invest in expensive new luggage, it will get dusty and bumped about

More Practical Safari Tips …

The recent discovery of a new hominid species, Australopithecus sediba, in South Africa has really excited us at African Portfolio. We apparently all share a fascination with paleoanthropology, who knew?! The new hominid fossil was found in an area called the “The Cradle of Mankind“. Previous fossil discoveries here have included Australopithecus africanus and Australopithecus robustus.

The Cradle of Mankind is located in Gauteng province, it covers a huge tract of privately owned land that is dotted with dolomitic limestone caves, a fossil haven. But it’s not exactly on the beaten track. Luckily there is an excellent museum in Johannesburg called the Origins Centre that is well worth a visit. The multi-media exhibit there traces the history of mankind from its very beginnings through to the present.

And while we’re on the subject of early man, there are several important and fascinating sites to visit in East Africa. If you’re planning a safari in Northern Tanzania, stop by the small museum in Oldupai Gorge (also known as Olduvai). The famous Leakey family spent time here in the 1930’s and discovered the remains of Australopithecus boisei and many other important fossils. Just 30 miles away in Laetoli, the discovery of bipedal footprints proved that mankind walked upright as early as 3.5 million years ago. These early hominid fossils (some are casts) are on display at the museum as well as a large array of early hominid artifacts and animal fossils.

Further north, the Leakey family and other paleoanthropologists are still busy in Koobi Fora and other sites around Lake Turkana. This is a unique area of Kenya, but hot and very much off the beaten track. Their blog is a little outdated but provides a fascinating insight into the life of a paleoanthropologist. The National Museum of Nairobi has many of the most important findings in its vaults. This is where the original Homo erectus and Homo habilis fossils reside. Since Nairobi is the main entry point for visitors to Kenya, it’s certainly worth an extra half day to see the origins of man with your own eyes.

Egypt has been attracting visitors for thousands of years, and with good reason since its ancient attractions rarely disappoint. But Egypt is quite an overwhelming place to visit and it’s not just the hustle and bustle of the place, but also the sheer heat. The tombs and temples of Luxor are truly fascinating, but facts about King Tut and Queen Hatshepsut will go in one ear and out the other, if your sneakers are literally melting off your feet. So in order to make the most of a trip to Egypt’s temples and tombs, we’ve got a few tips for you…

Surviving Egypt’s Tombs

• Visit in October through May so you won’t feel thoroughly cooked in less than 20 minutes.
• Bring lots of water and make sure the bottle has a new seal.
• Wear sunglasses since the glare is significant when you come out of a tomb.
• Slather on the sunscreen
• Wear a hat, floppy is better than a baseball cap to cover your ears
• Bring a flashlight since not all tombs are very well lit and you may need some extra light to see details.
• Pace yourself to three tombs or so per a day especially if you are not very fit. There’s quite a lot of walking and climbing of steps involved when you’re visiting these ancient sites.
• Beware if you are claustrophobic, it is hot and narrow in many of the tombs.
• Be prepared to pay extra to go into some of the more important tombs and also to take photos/video.
• Read up on what you’ll be seeing before you go

Cooling Off
We’ve also discovered the importance of a good hotel with a pool, close to the main attraction. In Luxor, our favorite place to stay is the Al Moudira. It’s a wonderful boutique hotel situated on Luxor’s West Bank (where the Valleys of the Kings and Queens are located). The hotel is decorated with Egyptian artifacts from souks, antique shops, bazaars, galleries and handicrafts by local artisans. The 54 rooms are spacious and grouped into units of four that open onto private courtyards, fountains and shaded lounging areas. The secluded swimming pool is just the perfect place to cool off and relax.

Interested in booking a trip to Egypt with us?
We can customize any trip, or you can try our Essential Egypt tour. If you’d like to cruise the Nile as part of your vacation, check out our Nile Valley Adventure.

We are thrilled to announce that Our Savor South Africa Gourmet Adventure has been won by Judy Donahue of Riverside, CT. Judy’s flair with words and passion for travel were exactly what we were looking for when we designed the contest. We received over 1400 entries including rhymes, videos, photos and prose. Here are some that we really enjoyed:

• Norman I don’t think we’re in Kansas anymore.
• In quest of natural wonders and culinary delight…the mystique of South Africa has it just right
• Off to South Africa, soaring above the sea, eyes wide and searching, oh how tall will the giraffe actually be?
• My African dream, culinary delights, safari adventures, unparalleled sights.
• With a spoonful of warm malva pudding in one hand and a glass of Constantia in the other, I told the little tail waggin’ fella to go play with the children…that’s what they’re here for after all
• If I See…(Video Animation)
• The Secret … (Video)
  

And the Winner Is …
Judy won our hearts with her rhyme:

“Adventures in Africa now lie before us — A safari that’s worthy of old Epicurus –Tintswalo Atlantic, Safari, and Waterfall — this dream of a trip begins with your call!“.

Judy received our call yesterday and we were so delighted with her reaction – “I’ve been to Africa four times as a disaster relief nurse for AmeriCares and I always wanted to go back with my husband and explore this beautiful country as a tourist. This will be quite a change from what I’ve experienced in Rwanda, Somalia, Ethiopia, and the Congo. I am so thrilled – this is fantastic!”. And here she is this morning receiving the official prize from Diane, the owner of African Portfolio.

Judy said she plans to take the “dream trip” with her husband in the Fall. The Donahues will begin their Savor South Africa adventure at the intimate Tintswalo at Waterfall hotel outside of Johannesburg. Next day, they fly to Tintswalo Safari Lodge, an exclusive six-suite lodge in the Manyeleti Game Reserve bordering Kruger National Park. The four days at the lodge will include safari drives, walks with the ranger and gourmet dinners every night. The couple will finish their trip by flying to Cape Town where they will spend three nights at the Tintswalo Atlantic, a magnificent lodge situated in the Table Mountain Nature Reserve at the edge of the Atlantic Ocean and one of the most dramatic locations in South Africa. The lodge’s chef-manager will give the pair an insider’s view to the local markets, vineyards, and award-winning restaurants.

Check back here to get a full trip report and photos! If you like the sound of this gourmet adventure, we have three culinary safaris that will whet your appetite: Savor South Africa – Afficionado; Savor South Africa – Connoisseur; and Savor South Africa – Epicure.

We firmly believe the Victoria Falls should be on everyone’s “must-see” list when visiting Southern Africa. This mile-wide curtain of thundering, falling water is quite something to behold. As the intrepid Victorian explorer David Livingstone remarked “scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight“. With sprays reaching up to 1000 feet in the sky and adorned by multiple permanent rainbows, you can understand his sentiment. You’ll also soon figure out why the local people named the falls Mosi-oa-Tunya (Smoke that Thunders), especially if you visit during the rainy season (March to May).

And if gazing at the Victoria Falls isn’t enough, you can also bungee jump into them; fly over them in a micro-light; raft in the rapids below, and swim right up to the edge of them. What? That’s right, swim! On the Zambian side of the Falls, there’s a shallow pool called “Devil’s Pool” where you can safely (if you’re careful) swim right to the edge of the world’s most impressive waterfall. This is truly the best place to view the Falls from if you have the courage. Devil’s Pool is located on Livingstone Island in the Zambezi River and you get to it by motorboat. Numbers are limited so you need to book this little adventure in advance, and it’s only possible from September to December.

We often get asked if seeing the falls from Zimbabwe is better than from Zambia or vice-versa. We actually like both sides equally, except during the dry season. The view from the Zimbabwe side is better during the height of the dry season because you face the entire length of the falls and still get the full impact of its grandeur. And despite UNESCO’s threats to withdraw its “World Natural Wonder” status, the Victoria Falls will always remain a world wonder, every day of the year. What do politicians know anyway.

Want to visit the Victoria Falls? Yvette will be traveling to the Victoria Falls next week for site inspections, so we’ll soon be updating our fine portfolio of safaris in Zambia and Zimbabwe.

There are quite a few South African chefs dotted around the US, quietly infusing their dishes with typical South African flavors. One of our favorites is Koren Grieveson, who is the Chef de Cuisine at Avec Restaurant in Chicago. Besides creating amazing dishes for Avec, she has made Quesadillas for the Obama family on the White House lawn, and also participated in the Iron Chef TV show.

If you’re dining in and need some inspiration, here’s Koren creating an entire South African Dinner – yum. This really got us in the mood and we wasted more office time looking up other South African recipes on YouTube. We found out how to make Warthog Kebabs; Bunny Chow; Springbok with Apricot Chutney; and Salmon a la Steenberg. A common theme is the South African penchant for mixing meat with fruit whenever possible. It must be one of the few countries where chutney is more popular than ketchup.

And if the chef isn’t South African, the next best thing we look for is a South African who owns their own restaurant. Stanton Du Toit used to be a wine maker in South Africa and now owns The Sojourn Restaurant in New York. The Sojourn serves “small plates” from all over the world, very appropriate since that’s basically the foundation of South African cuisine. We actually like The Sojourn so much we’ve chosen it to be the venue for our next dinner event (more on that later).

Speaking of events, of course the Savor South Africa Contest is drawing to a close, final entries need to be in by March 20th. To find out if you’ve won our Gourmet Safari for two, we’ll be announcing it on Facebook and Twitter, so do sign up.

Just a two weeks left until we announce the winner of our Savor South Africa contest. We’re very excited. And just to prove that South Africa really is the best culinary destination in the world, we wanted to share some of the food and wine festivals taking place in the next few months.

WitblitsFees – March 14-15, 2010

Not for the feint of heart, this little South African festival celebrates Witblits, (white lightning) a South African moonshine. It’s a true Afrikaner gourmet experience with traditional food served along with old-fashioned entertainment on the side. The festival takes place in Philippolis, the oldest town in the Free State. More details…

Tonteldoos Country Festival – April 3, 2010

The Tonteldoos Country Festival is held in South Africa’s Mpumalanga province (home to Kruger National Park). It started life as a Peach Festival in 1996 and has grown into a larger affair with 17 food stalls serving local delicacies and gourmet dishes. More details…

Lambert’s Bay Kreeffees – April 22-24, 2010

Fish lovers unite at this wonderful foodie feast dedicated to the crayfish. Lambert’s Bay is on the Western Cape coast. As well as food and wine, there’s music and bungee jumping. We highly recommend you bungee jump before you eat your crayfish and visit the beer tent. More details…

The South African Cheese Festival – April 24-27, 2010

The South African Cheese Festival brings together food artisans and cheese makers from all over South Africa. All you turophiles out there rejoice, you can eat cheese, make cheese, bake cheese and play with cheese. You’ll get to taste creamy goat cheese, piquant blue cheese, and nutty gruyeres, accompanied with bread, wine, music and other treats. There are lots of attractions geared to both adults and children, so bring the whole family. More details…

Prince Albert Town Olive Festival – and the Riebeek Kasteel Olive Festival, 30 April – 2 May, 2010

You may not be aware of this, but South Africa produces some of the world’s best olive oil and its worth celebrating. You actually have a choice of olive festivals. Prince Albert Town in the Karoo, will celebrate their liquid gold, with food stalls, circus performers and dances. Riebeek, in Western Cape’s Swartland valley, will showcase its famous olives in all their forms, along with lots of other gourmet delicacies, Swartland wine and music. More details about: Prince Albert’s Olive festival, and Riebeek’s Olive festival.

Cape Gourmet Festival – May 13-16, 2010

The Good Food and Wine Show comes to Cape Town once a year along with a host of celebrity chefs including Gordon Ramsey, Willie Harcourt-Cooze, and Anjum Anand. The show will be held in the Cape Town International Convention Center. Nine state-of-the-art kitchens will be set up with a world-class chef working their magic at each station. You can taste, watch and learn from the gourmet experts at hand. There will be experts blending wine, making beer, tasting teas and an entire theater dedicated to chocolate. Yum. More details…

Sorry to say, we just missed the Prickly Pear Festival in Uitenhage, Eastern Cape, but check this site for 2011 dates! And if you can’t make it to a particular festival, many of South Africa’s towns have fresh, organic markets serving fantastic food every weekend. Ask us about them when you book your culinary tour to South Africa!

Around half a million newborn wildebeest calves are currently trying to keep up with their mothers on the Serengeti Plains, as they begin the 1800 mile migration circuit in search of food and water. The great annual migration of 1.5 million wildebeest, around 200,000 zebra and thousands of gazelles usually starts at the beginning of March. The reports out of Tanzania right now are showing small pockets of herds moving west towards the western corridor of the Serengeti. The main herds are still happily grazing in the Ndutu area, but are expected to start moving towards Seronera in the coming weeks.

In the coming months, the most spectacular scenes will unfold as the herds gather in ever larger numbers and make their way from the Serengeti and Ngorongoro areas, to Kenya’s Masai Mara Reserve. They will have to cross the Grumeti River and the Mara River in search of the sweet grasses of the Mara plains.

The river crossings can be very rough and dangerous, with thousands of hungry crocodiles lying in wait. And once the herds have reached the other side, they still have to contend with the hundreds of predators that follow this migration. Hyenas, lions, jackals, leopards and wild dogs really like the taste young wildebeest.

Experiencing any part of this incredible natural spectacle is truly the greatest safari experience you could wish for. Whether you’re enjoying watching hundreds of thousands of young wildebeest calves on the plains of the Serengeti in February; witnessing the great river crossings in July; or simply enjoying the vast numbers of wildlife on the Mara plains in August — it’s all pretty fantastic.

Because the timing of the migration is dependent on the weather, its somewhat unpredictable. But we know the migration patterns and keep up to date with field reports. This allows us to make sure that when we book your safari we’re looking at the right camps, in the right place, at the right time.

It was nail-biting watching the wild fires rage out of control in Franschhoek a few weeks ago. They were so close to our favorite lunch spot in the world – La Petit Ferme. Luckily guests were evacuated in time and no one was hurt. The restaurant was spared the worst due to the quick action by local firefighters.

La Petit Ferme is a lovely little restaurant that’s been run by three generations and considered to be one of the best in South Africa. Where else could you enjoy a starter of bite-size Springbok Bobotie, served with peppered poppadums and sambals? And while your taste buds are savoring the food, your eyeballs will be lapping up the gorgeous valley views. If you’re unlucky and La Petit Ferme is fully booked, we’d suggest lunch at the Bread & Wine. Their charcuterie platter with its array of home cured meats (chorizo, salami, ham and more) is just a delight.

Both of these wonderful restaurants are located in Franschhoek, the gourmet capital of South Africa. Franschhoek is nestled in a valley surrounded by mountains in the heart of the Cape Winelands region. The Franschhoek valley was first settled by French Huguenot refugees in 1688. The refugees were given the land by the Dutch and they wasted no time planting vineyards. The original farms are steeped in history, each one has a story to tell (usually accompanied by a great glass of wine and excellent food).

Once you’ve had your fill of gourmet cuisine and excellent wine, it may be wise to move around a little, especially if you’re planning on staying for dinner. There are lots of activities you can enjoy in Franschhoek to to aid your digestion. There’s golf, horseback riding, swimming, paragliding, hiking and mountain biking to name just a few. And what a dinner choice you have. We recommend you try either The Tasting Room or Reubens.

Franschhoek is particularly close to our hearts because a chance meeting with an American tourist at La Petit Ferme, was the catalyst that propelled Yvette into making a move to the US. Of course she didn’t leave without first finishing her favorite bottle of Boschendal Blanc De Noir. And you won’t be surprised to hear she’s been back many times for more.

Want to savor Franschhoek for yourself? Then enter our contest and win gourmet safari for two, click here for details.